








Carbon Fiber & Fiberglass - Finish Levels
We have created this level system to set expectations when ordering a composite part from us. All parts are checked for adequate epoxy resin penetration through the layers. The level is describing the surface finish, not the quality of the composite. We use hand layup, vacuum infusion, and pre-preg (dry carbon) materials depending on the volume and size of the part. This list applies to all composite parts.
Similar to drywall in a house, we chose these levels because different use applications come with varying priorities.
For example: carbon parts on the bottom of the track car don't need to look as good as a mirror cap at eye level. The parts under your car will get peppered with road debris; so cost and function is often more important than cosmetics. C and D level parts have the least labor involved, and therefore provide the best value. All of our composite parts are made in Pennsylvania, USA. Yes, it is expensive - but every purchase helps keep skilled labor in the US.
- A level - Thick gelcoat or epoxy top coat to even out the entire finish. Part is sanded to a smooth finish. You can buff it yourself for a perfect finish. These parts will weigh more than a B&C level part from the added surface coatings. The labor is also significantly higher (2-3x) and reflected in the total price.
- B level - Any pin holes are covered with a flood top coat, but may have some nibs and imperfect edges. These can be wet sanded down when you receive it, and more top coats or a 2K clear applied if you want to improve the appearance of the part and achieve an A level finish (add gloss/depth).
- C level - Part is cut to size, mold release washed off, and wet sanded to remove any nibs. Pinholes may still be visible. We consider these parts the most affordable "finished" option, and best suited for a track car where they will see wear and tear, so appearance is not the primary goal, but function, price and weight savings is. They will have a matte or light satin finish. Our epoxy's do have a UV stabilizer, but will eventually begin to yellow if exposed to the sun on a daily basis. Depending on the position of the part on the car, that may not matter.
- D level - Raw part pulled off the mold that is cut to size with no top coat. We wash off the mold release. This is considered a DIY part that you can cut to size for your application and finish it yourself with a rattle can clear coat. Also applies to scratch and dent parts that have distorted weaves or other cosmetic defects.